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Setchu debuts with Tokyo on the Arno

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January 17, 2025

The very indie house of Setchu made its runway debut at Pitti on Thursday, even as its founder Satoshi Kuwata stressed this “Tokyo on the Arno” ​collection would be his first and last catwalk show.

Setchu – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Florence – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
A very clever blend of Japan-born Satoshi’s disparate influences – where kimonos met Savile Row and Japanese iconography rubbed up against European demi-mondaine – this was a hyper thought-provoking collection, sure to be one of the season’s best fashion statements.

Presented inside the National Library of Florence, on the banks of the Arno – weirdly almost devoid of actual books – this quirkily timeless collection opened with daintily distorted English aristocratic chic. 

A noble yet offbeat couple in almost matching fine wool frocks and deep grey tartan pants and skirt. Totally summing up Satoshi’s dialectical oeuvre. 
 
Trained by Huntsman and Davies & Sons, the latter is oldest tailors on Savile Row, Satoshi is an excellent pattern cutter – a skill few of his contemporaries will ever achieve. He allies this skill with an intriguing Japanese obsession with folds. In a pre-show presentation, he even folded up a blazer into a smart cardboard box, something a Westerner would only do with a shirt. He also injects creases into most looks, an idea culled from his home country.
 
“Usually, you don’t want a crease on a garment, but in a kimono the beauty is in the crease on the shoulder,” explained Satoshi.
 
One had to love his gentlemanly blazers – again worn by a gal and guy – with built in creases, or a brilliant trilogy of creased classic blue gents’ shirts. One cut into a halter neck party frock was totally sexy and cool. And worn by a model, styled with a black cut-out mini fish over her mouth.
 
Like many Asia designers, Satoshi loves going fishing. Yohji Yamamoto fishes all over the Pacific; John Rocha loves to fish in Alaska or the Bering Sea; Kuwata casts for snapper off Japan. 

Setchu – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Florence – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Expressing his desire to try out new territory – like his jumbled up pale gray jersey deconstructed sweatshirts and track pants; Kimono peacoat assemblages; palest gray denim made of denim and paper or his posh military leather peacoats, finished with chunky lace.
 
Suddenly changing gears with some fantasy multicolor Mongolian lamb coats; and a Tale of Genji jacquard silk jacket with a print of an aroused octopus embracing a geisha. The print and the image that inspired it part of an extended installation revealed upstairs after the show that included shoe lasts; collar details; carefully folded jackets in brown boxes; hyper precise fashion sketches and 16th-century drawings of the solar system.
 
“Our approach is not fashion. We try to create a culture,” insisted Satoshi, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner.
 
In short, Milan-based Setchu is now one of the most original brands in fashion. Cerebral, cunning, artily classy, clever and commercial. Just ask Hirofumi Kurino, Asia’s most influential menswear buyer, who buys the Setchu total look for his key United Arrows flagships in Tokyo.
 
The East-meets-west moment continuing at a post-show dinner, in a charmingly revamped farmhouse in the hills above Florence, where Japanese dishes like shrimp meatballs with fungi porcini were followed with Tuscan tagliata with yuzu sauce.
 
Tokyo on the Arno, indeed.
 

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Iceberg Jeans is back under creative director James Long

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Ansa

Translated by

Nicola Mira

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January 31, 2025

Iceberg Jeans, the iconic streetwear line by Italian label Iceberg, is back. Under creative director James Long, the Iceberg Jeans line embodies a vibrant state of mind: fun, inclusive, contemporary, and accessible. Besides denim, the new collection includes outerwear, knitwear, tailored items, casual wear and accessories.

Iceberg Jeans

“I’ve always wanted to give Iceberg Jeans a new lease of life,” said Long, the creative director at Iceberg. “The brand has a unique energy, and like everything that Iceberg represents, it’s always about looking to the future with optimism. I love these designs, and I hope that others too will appreciate them and make them part of their everyday lives.”

Iceberg Jeans debuted in 1986, soon emerging as a bold brand bringing Italian design, with its mix of playfulness and wearability, to the world. Its success was fuelled by word of mouth, and by campaigns that have become pop culture icons, featuring celebrities such as Lil’ Kim and Paris Hilton. The new collection refreshes the positive essence of Iceberg Jeans’s heritage while looking to the future. The Iceberg Jeans Fall 2025 collection will be available at selected wholesale partners, Iceberg stores and online from June 2025.

Copyright © 2025 ANSA. All rights reserved.



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Paris Haute Couture Week celebrates young designers with Peet Dullaert and London-based Miss Sohee

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Nicola Mira

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January 31, 2025

Experimentation and innovation were the name of the game on the last day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Emerging couturiers took centre stage on Thursday, like Peet Dullaert, 35, from the Netherlands, and Miss Sohee, 28, from Korea. The latter staged her maiden couture week show, as a guest on the event’s official calendar. Dullaert and Miss Sohee unveiled Spring/Summer 2025 collections characterised by contrasting styles.

Peet Dullaert, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Dullaert, a Paris-based Dutch designer, showed for the first time at Paris Haute Couture Week exactly a year ago. In his third Parisian show, he juxtaposed glamourous looks with more everyday ones, like the suits and trousers sets or the black tweed maxi coat, worn back-to-front with the cuffs, pockets and buttons at the rear, which could morph into an evening dress if needed.

Dullaert’s couture looks were made from bodysuits and playsuits in tight stretch fabric, on which he added long, sheer flared skirts decorated with geometric patterns embroidered with gems, or made with swathes of silk draped directly on the body, giving the models real freedom of movement. The feeling of freedom was heightened by the use of a wrinkled high-performance fabric developed by the label.

Other looks were covered with thin tassels lined with sequins, or with crystals, with draped white and black tulle, taffeta and other glimmering silks. Dullaert’s looks were characterised by flowing volumes and silhouettes, but he didn’t shy away from intervening decisively in the garments’ construction, for example baring a shoulder or cutting his dresses with long slits along the legs.

The couture show by Miss Sohee, real name Sohee Park, was eagerly awaited. The London-based Korean designer showed twice before in Paris, and was a hit on the Milanese runways in February 2022, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. She pulled out all the stops in Paris, immersing her guests in a magical universe where eras and bold silhouettes mixed spectacularly, showcased inside the gilded halls and under the majestic chandeliers of the Pozzo di Borgo palace.
 

Miss Sohee, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miss Sohee’s ladies seemed to be ready for a grand ball with their shimmering, vibrantly coloured crinoline dresses, satin sheath dresses glittering with pearls, and statement coats whose long trains were ornamented with embroidered bucolic scenes, like a golden peacock or floral branches, rich in crystals and sequins. Looks worthy of the Venice Carnival.
 
Botticelli’s Venus seemed to have inspired Miss Sohee, scallops and seashells being among the key elements in her collection. A large shell rose like a fan at the back of a corset which extended into a long, faded-pink silk skirt. Elsewhere, shells encased the hips in two short bustier dresses in python and crocodile-effect leather, or added length to a bustier entirely decorated with gems that was sewn onto a tulle top dotted with mother-of-pearl drops.
 
Shells embroidered in small patterns featured on a silk duchesse dress, and more shells in silver pleated fabric turned into a micro hooded jacket over a Fantômas-style black velvet jumpsuit, with a double row of white pearls draped around the waist.
 
Nothing seemed too precious and extravagant for Miss Sohee’s ladies, who also wore more contemporary outfits consisting of lace jumpsuits, miniskirts and laced thigh-high boots. Park founded her label in 2020, after studying at Central Saint Martins in London, and her customers include scores of celebrities, among them names like Cardi B. and Bella Hadid.
 

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Almost all Britons are now shopping in physical stores

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January 31, 2025

All hail physical retail. The demise of the high street store predicted in the early pandemic period was wide of the mark as a near nine out of 10 of Britons visited a retail destination during October and November.

Photo: Pixabay/Public domain

In fact, 88% now shop in-store, an amazing increase of 86.1% since last May. And it’s been heavily influenced by workers increasingly returning to city and town centre offices as well as consumers aged under 35. 

That’s according the the latest Consumer Pulse Report by MRI Software/Retail Economics showing “high streets remain the lifeblood of the retail ecosystem”, leading in visitor frequency with an average of 2.2 visits per person per month “reinforcing their importance as destinations that bring people together.”

The survey reveals that 31% of office workers play a key role in high street retail, with visits peaking during lunch hours while 33% of them choose to visit after 5pm on weekdays, particularly Tuesdays and Wednesdays which have become the popular days to venture into the office. 

“As return to office becomes more widespread, the retail sector has an opportunity to maximise engagement and sales by leveraging these insights and presenting itself as a convenient shopping option for the hybrid workforce”, the report highlights.

Working from home is increasingly becoming a non-starter for many businesses with regular news stories about major companies insisting that their staff returned to the office full-time or at least three or four days a week.

Further, the under-35 demographic is increasingly motivated by experiential retail opportunities. 

In November, this age group averaged 9.5 visits to physical retail destinations, more than double the frequency of those aged 55 and over. 

Interestingly, the rise of social commerce, which enables shoppers to make purchases within social media apps such as TikTok and Instagram, “is likely influencing footfall into physical retail destinations and creating opportunities for in-store experiences”, the study claims.

Jenni Matthews, marketing & insights director, MRI Software, said: “The latest findings depict a retail sector that continues to adapt and remain relevant as consumer behaviours shift.

“With 88% of the UK population visiting retail destinations and under-35s driving experiential trends, it’s clear that physical retail remains a powerful touchpoint for engagement.

“Retailers have an incredible opportunity to leverage these insights, not just to meet consumer expectations, but to exceed them by creating vibrant, immersive destinations that align with changing consumer behaviours.”

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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