Hollywood and fashion have been long bedfellows as both are generally synonymous with glamour. It’s also been lucrative for both parties involved. A brand gets instant star power, while talent and managers benefit from profitable partnership deals when the two worlds converge. Mainly, the stage for these intersections has been the red carpet and vis-à-vis brand ad campaigns or merchandise-related deals such as witnessed with the “Barbie” and “Wicked” movies.
Lately, however, fashion has pressed deeper into the film industry with prominent creative roles and high-profile product placement deals. Brands such as Saint Laurent, Loewe, Omega, Valentino, and Carhartt are among the labels that had stellar roles and deals in 2024. With luxury reporting a downturn and traditional spaces such as physical retail struggling to remain relevant as an avenue of discovery, film presents an enticing platform to promote fashion, especially as streaming services bring these productions to one’s living room.
As awards season in the U.S. kicked off with Sunday’s Golden Globes event, the biggest winner of the evening was “Emilia Pérez,” the unconventional musical from award-winning French filmmaker Jacques Audiard that stars trans actress Karla Sofía Gascón, Zoe Saldaña, and Selena Gomez. The film—which is about a Mexican drug lord engaging a lawyer to help fake her death to finally live authentically as a woman—took home Best Motion Picture, Best Non-English Language Motion Picture, Best Supporting Female Actor-Motion Picture, and Best Original Song-Motion Picture.
It was a first for Anthony Vaccarello, whose Saint Laurent Productions co-produced the film with Audiard, Pascal Caucheteux, and Valérie Schermann. Costume Designer Virginie Montel dove into Vaccarello’s archives and current designs to outfit many characters. Thus, things such as a floral print jumpsuit and a raglan sleeve T-shirt, worm by Gomez, and a tan clutch and white open-toed mule sandals sported on Saldaña are attributed to the Saint Laurent brand and available for purchase on various websites.
Naturally, the partnership also allows for the more traditional tie-up of the red carpet. For the Golden Globes, Saint Laurent dressed Gascón, Saldana and Audiard. Saint Laurent Productions debuted the film at this year’s Cannes Film Festival along with two other films, “The Shrouds” by David Cronenberg and “Parthenope” by Paolo Sorrentino.
Earlier in the year, Jonathan Anderson made his movie costume designer debut, not once but twice for director Luca Guadagnino, who directed “Challengers,” the tennis-theme flick starring Zendaya, and “Queer” starring Daniel Craig. While Anderson didn’t stick to just Loewe or his eponymous brand for the wardrobe, brands as varied as Chanel, Cartier, Uniqlo, and Juicy Couture also appeared; it gave the luxury goods house an opportunity to sell products related to it.
The character Patrick, played by Josh O’Connor, wears a T-shirt emblazoned with “I Told Ya,” inspired by a famous image of JFK, jr. playing frisbee in Central Park wearing a T-shirt with the exact words. Loewe produced their version of the tee and a sweatshirt, which sold for $330 and $690. Currently, a collaboration with Loewe x On sneakers is available on the brand’s site, as the Swiss athletic brand was also featured in the movie.
In “Queer,” which relates to the gay expat community in Mexico in the 1950s, Anderson mainly relied on period dressing. Still, the movie partnership allowed for a capsule collection with the JW Anderson brand consisting of sweatshirts, T-shirts, caps, and tote bags that depict stills from the film and a quote from the movie: “I want to talk to you…without speaking.”
A few recent holiday Netflix films have also pointed to fashion playing a more prominent role in filmmaking. In the space-race-themed rom-com “Fly Me to the Moon” starring Scarlett Johansson and Tatum Channing, an Omega watch was practically a cast member. Johansson plays a marketing executive tasked with making the flailing NASA program appealing to the public through savvy ad campaigns. The Omega Speedmaster Professional, worn by Buzz Aldrin in July 1969 during the Apollo 11 mission, was the first watch to go to the moon. Thus, the film depicts Johansson’s character developing an ad campaign around the watch to capitalize on its infamy.
Another recent Netflix release, “It Ends with Us,” starring Blake Lively, has a heavy fashion presence. In it, Lively’s character wears so many Carhartt products that it seems like another character. Valentino also makes a co-starring role as Lively’s character carries a logo prominent VLogo tote throughout while a supporting character sports a rainbow-colored sequined dress that spells Valentino. Both examples beg the question if the stakes of the traditional product placement model are higher than in the past. (Another interesting aspect is that Lively also wore several items from her personal wardrobe in the film.)
Since 2023 Netflix has been rethinking its strategy after spending as much as $200 million on films such as “The Gray Man” and “Red Notice” in 2022 and titles such as “The Irishman” and “6 Underground” which cost $160 and $150 million, respectively in 2019. Under new chief content officer Bela Bajaria and new film chief Dan Lin, the company is engaging in a quality-over-quantity approach, vowing to spend less money on better content and produce more.
(Five years ago, 37.8 percent was original content; in 2025, it will be 46.5 percent.) As one aspect of the strategy includes diversifying revenue streams and multiple sources cite the importance of paid product placement, fashion will find more opportunities to flex their wares in film in 2025.
German retail sales rose in 2024, but growth should be more modest this year due to the high level of uncertainty, according to retail association HDE.
Last year, retail sales rose 1.1% compared to the previous year in inflation-adjusted terms, official data showed on Friday. The HDE forecasts 0.5% growth in real terms this year.
“Consumption and the retail sector in Germany will not really gain momentum in 2025 either,” said HDE managing director Stefan Genth. “There is simply too much uncertainty,” he said. “Wars, high energy costs and overall economic stagnation are a toxic cocktail for consumption.”
In nominal terms, retail sales rose by 2.5% in 2024 and are expected to grow by 2.0% in 2025, according to HDE’s forecast.
The latest HDE survey with 700 retailers shows that 22% of respondents expect sales to increase this year, while almost half of them expect results to be below the previous year’s level.
In December, retail sales fell by 1.6% compared with the previous month, official data showed. Analysts had predicted a 0.2% increase.
Many big names in UK retail had a good Christmas season — despite the sector being generally sluggish — but it seems John Lewis Partnership (JLP) may not have been one of them.
The retailer — which operates its eponymous department stores and webstore, plus Waitrose supermarkets — has missed its profit target after a disappointing festive season.
It hasn’t shared any info officially but internal documents seen by The Telegraph suggest bad news to come when it does release its results.
Those internal documents have only been shared with staff so far with the company saying that sales have fallen short of expectations and it’s unlikely to achieve its hoped-for £131 million full-year profit.
The company is said to have blamed “lower consumer confidence and weaker than expected market confidence” for the sales miss in the month to 21 December, although also the fact that key trading days fell outside the period.
Sales targets were missed at both of the firm’s chains, although the newspaper said it still claimed it outperformed rivals and staff should be “proud of our performance”.
It will be interesting therefore to see exactly what its figures were as a number of rivals have actually reported a good Christmas. If its stores have beaten other supermarkets and chains like M&S, perhaps its targets were too ambitious in the first place.
We won’t know for a while, but we do know that with M&S resurgent, JLP’s supermarkets and department stores have lost some of their lustre as the destination of choice for Britain’s middle classes.
So what were the firm’s benchmarks? Back in September it had said it was seeing strong demand and expected a significant rise in profits for the year to January. The prior year’s pre-tax profit had been £56 million and the year before that it made a loss.
It had also talked about its turnaround efforts paying off and that it was seeing a “considerable improvement” in performance, with the John Lewis chain in particular expected to benefit from a buoyant second half.
Christian Dior Couture announced on Friday that Kim Jones, its Dior Homme artistic director, is leaving the post after seven years.
It’s been rumoured for some time that he would exit the label but it’s not yet known what his next step will be.
Jones has been widely praised for his work at Dior with his latest men’s collection shown this month being hailed as a success.
He’s been a key creative at LVMH having also designed its Fendi women’s collections. And he helmed Louis Vuitton’s menswear before he joined Dior.
The company said it “wishes to express its deepest gratitude” to the designer “who has accelerated the development of Men’s collections internationally and has greatly contributed to the worldwide influence of the House by creating an inspiring wardrobe that is both classic and contemporary, and connected to some artists of our time”.
And Delphine Arnault, who’s chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture,added: “I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the House’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations.”
Jones meanwhile called it a “true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”