After closing 2025 at €80 million, up 5%, denim specialist Jacob Cohën is preparing to open its first US mono-brand store in late May: a two-storey, 280-square-metre space on Madison Avenue in New York.

“The first level will be dedicated to womenswear and the second to menswear, with a lifestyle-driven concept,” Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle, president and creative director of the brand, tells FashionNetwork.com. “The US market is very important to us: we have been present in the wholesale channel for a couple of years now and have already reached a turnover of €3 million; moreover, the US is our leading country in terms of e-commerce sales, followed by Germany and Italy. The New York opening will be preceded by another opening at the end of April in Monte-Carlo.”

During Milan Men’s Fashion Week, the brand presented its AW 2026-27 collection, with models moving as if they were guests in the lobby of a luxury hotel, a set crafted in denim by designer Fabio Chrestich. The garments are embellished with leather inserts, stitching that traces the brand’s trapezium-shaped logo, and applied rivets. The materials speak to luxury and refinement: ultra-soft nappa, including suede, deerskin, and sheepskin for jackets, bomber jackets and gilets; double-faced cashmere, in solid colours, contrasting combinations or Prince of Wales check, for sharply tailored coats with a distinctly sartorial spirit. Puffer coats and jackets crafted from Loro Piana fabrics are characterised by the Storm System treatment, which combines a soft handle with practicality.

Denim- whose most elevated iteration is the emblem of Jacob Cohën- runs through the collection in shirts and five-pocket jeans with relaxed cuts; in addition, the new Blue Silk Cloud project uses recycled denim mixed with silk and polyester for the garments’ internal padding. The jumpers, in fine cashmere and cashmere- silk yarns, come as polo knits, mock-necks or rollnecks, in colour-block or with geometric patterns. The palette is inspired by autumn and captures shades of brown, burnt tones, taupe, greys, and moss green, through to ochres and ice blue.

For womenswear, the craftsmanship is extremely detailed and deft cuts elegantly reveal the body through skirt slits, openings at the back of silk shirts, and the necklines of cross-over tops, counterbalanced by the solid construction of jackets with structured shoulders.

Trench coats and coats come in suede or pony skin, a material also used for gilets and super-cropped jackets. Denim features contrasting leather trims and details, and Jacob Cohën’s cult styles are reimagined in different fabrics, including leather. For womenswear, the palette includes brown, taupe, ivory, brushstrokes of green that shade from forest to sage, pops of “electric” purple, grey, and indigo blue.

“Since S/S 2026 there has been a radical change in the development of the collection, an expansion towards the total look and a broadened leather assortment, from nappa to second-skin leather used for rainwear and blazers, from shearling to ultra-light suede, through to deerskin. We are bringing the hallmark details of our jeans into tops and outerwear, such as buttons, rivets, and poems printed on the inside,” concludes Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle. “In addition, we are moving increasingly towards lifestyle: we have presented padel racket bags in denim and leather and have recently launched our first hemp-based beauty line, developed in collaboration with a company that specialises in natural essences. We have translated the fragrance with which our garments are washed into shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, and body lotion; in addition, we have created a kit for hotels and a wooden beauty box that, once the products are finished, becomes a jewellery box.”