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Milan Fashion Week opens menswear season with Zegna

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January 16, 2026

Milan Fashion Week’s menswear season kicked off Friday afternoon with a grand show and ground-breaking collection from a powerhouse brand- Zegna. Presented inside Palazzo del Ghiaccio, a giant, all-white ice-skating rink in east Milan, redesigned like a giant gentleman’s dressing room, where the cast walked out of huge closet doors.

Creative director Alessandro Sartori’s take on Zegna’s brand heritage – FashionNetwork.com

 
Creative director Alessandro Sartori played with the house’s codes of refined elegance, even as he subverted them- with tailoring innovations and novel materials. Like his brilliant new Horizontal Three jacket, a snug double-breasted blazer, with a hidden third button that can be used to expand the garment into a far looser silhouette.
 
In terms of fabrics, Alessandro dreamed up a new blend of cashmere and paper- seen in check cardigan jackets. Devoid of interior pockets and with an unexpected hand, they hung perfectly.

The show invitation was a playing card, revealing the collection’s title- Memorie. A riff on the deep history of the brand, which has just named brothers from its fourth generation– Edoardo and Angelo– as new co-CEOs, 115 years after the label was founded in Trivero, Italy. This also referenced Alessandro Sartori’s own memories of his father, who died when he was a young boy.

Monochrome layers at Zegna
Monochrome layers at Zegna – FashionNetwork.com

 
“One of my strongest emotions was my dad putting on a suit or jacket. When I later found photos of him, I rediscovered my father through his clothes,” explained a wistful Sartori. 
 
The show was also the latest example of smart storytelling by this designer, who presented an early 1930s suit made for founder Ermenegildo Zegna in an Australian wool fabric woven at his own mill. Encased in a museum glass box at the entrance to the show, with a sign that read: Abito 1– or ‘First Suit.’
 
Staged on a classically cloudy January in Lombardy when a chill humidity seeps down from the nearby Alps, the collection looked ideal for the conditions. Notably, a beautiful series of Donegal tweed style speckled beige and brown suits. Worn with fine wool shirts finished with leather buttons. 
 
No other major Italian tailoring brand has been as courageous as Zegna in pivoting an historically business suits-driven business into the new era of casual luxury. A key reason it could do so is the talent of its creative director Alessandro Sartori.

Zegna's latest suits
Zegna’s latest suits – FashionNetwork.com

 
That said, he produced multiple modernist suits in wide yet subtle stripes, cut with large, notched lapels. And showed multiple great coats with forgivingly softer shoulders. Natty yet always noble and worn on a cast of multiple generations, parading around the carpeted floor.
 
Backed up by a soundtrack that blended Nick Cave’s Into My Arms with Max Richter’s In The Garden, this was as polished a fashion statement as one could imagine. As Sartori kept stretching the Zegna DNA without ever snapping it.
 
“I am the custodian of the Zegna family wardrobe,” smiled Alessandro post-show. Before- for his next trick- trying on a Horizontal Three to show how the technique worked to much applause.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Kering CRAFT gains major momentum among Chinese designers

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January 16, 2026

Since its November 2025 launch, ‘Kering CRAFT: Creative Residency for Artisanship, Fashion, and Technology’ has generated substantial buzz among China’s creative community. In response to high demand and frequent enquiries, a dedicated seminar was recently held at the SFDA Designer’s Home to clarify the program’s framework and application process.

Kering CRAFT: Creative Residency for Artisanship, Fashion, and Technology in partnership with Shanghai Fashion Week
Kering CRAFT: Creative Residency for Artisanship, Fashion, and Technology in partnership with Shanghai Fashion Week – SHFW

At a recent seminar, Kering’s Greater China president Cai Jinqing introduced the Kering CRAFT program, an initiative dedicated to nurturing the next wave of creative leaders. By combining creative practice with industry collaboration and sustainability, the program offers a clear roadmap for talent development. Designers in attendance received a thorough breakdown of the selection process and participation guidelines, engaging in direct dialogue about the program’s implementation.
 
Kering CRAFT represents the latest evolution of the collaboration between Kering Group and Shanghai Fashion Week. Following the momentum of the Kering Generation Award, this partnership seeks to accelerate the growth of forward-thinking Chinese talent. The goal is twofold: to provide designers with the tools to scale and to discover the future “global + local” brands that will define the Chinese fashion landscape.

Meticulously curated by Kering Group, this global program spans France, Italy, and China, connecting the fashion hubs of Milan, Florence, Paris, and Shanghai. The year-long immersive journey is anchored by a mandatory eight-week European residency, offering participants unparalleled access to and exchange with Kering’s iconic luxury houses. Complemented by domestic training in China, the program merges craftsmanship with cutting-edge innovation to spark vital dialogues on heritage and the evolving business models of the luxury sector.

The event saw strong engagement, with over 40 designers attending in person and nearly 30 participating via a live digital stream, where they engaged in a deep-dive Q&A session
The event saw strong engagement, with over 40 designers attending in person and nearly 30 participating via a live digital stream, where they engaged in a deep-dive Q&A session – SHFW

 
In her opening remarks, Madame LV, secretary general of the Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee and executive VP of SFDA, affirmed the organisation’s full support. She emphasised that they would leverage Shanghai Fashion Week’s extensive network and the SFDA’s talent platform to provide ongoing resources and professional collaboration. This partnership is designed to establish a future-oriented cultivation mechanism, elevating Chinese design capabilities and driving the industry’s creative transformation.
 
By Sissi Chu
 

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Milano Moda Uomo: Ralph Lauren, the coolest classicism

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January 16, 2026

The house of Ralph Lauren very rarely stages menswear runway shows in Milan, which is a pity as its catwalk display this Friday was the coolest and cleverest display of menswear classicism we’ve seen in many moons.

Ralph Lauren in Milan – FashionNetwork.com

 
The smoothest of shows too. Presented with polish inside Ralph Lauren’s European headquarters, a geometric Rationalist era jewel of a building. Guests- from Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo to Nick Jonas- imbibing biscuity champagne as they took their places on leather bench seats.
 
Opening with a score of looks from Polo, a rich selection of kicky, preppy ideas: red flannel shirts with turkey prints; Navajo graphic wool sweaters; snow crystal pattern cardigans; and even a brown three-piece Prince of Wales suit.  All anchored by Alpine hiking boots or hyped-up L.L. Bean style waders; or accessorised by Black Watch tartan carpet bags.

Plenty of Western looks, from urban cowboy brown suede fringed jackets, worn by a model with an acoustic guitar on his back, to lace ties, rancher hats, and riding boots. Very Yellowstone in Lombardy.

Black Watch tartan by Ralph Lauren
Black Watch tartan by Ralph Lauren – FashionNetwork.com

 
Backed up by a great soundtrack- where Nina Simone’s Sinnerman followed Texas Sun by Khruangbin and Leon Bridges. Ideal for some bold and colourful motor-bike jackets that read: Ralph Lauren Racing.
 
As day shifted to evening, Scottish baronial chic made an appearance: from Clan Stewart red plaid tuxedos worn under a Count Dracula cape to a great black Grenadier guards military tunic worn with a black silk stock– un petit merci to Dior. Albeit seen on models sporting New York Yankees baseball caps.
 
“We had so many looks and ideas in this collection that it just seemed right to stage a show this week in Milan,” explained Andrew Lauren, sitting among the movie stars in the villa’s covered courtyard.

Tailoring by Ralph Lauren
Tailoring by Ralph Lauren – FashionNetwork.com

 
All worn by a highly diverse cast, from all the world’s continents. And, one could not help noticing that when he came to the two chalk stripe impeccable bankers, these were worn by a South and an East Asian.
 
Though there was clearly no deliberate political message, the very heterogeneousness of the cast was a reminder of how Ralph has always celebrated the diversity of America. Which, at a moment when ICE are clearly racially profiling citizens in the United States, made this show feel very powerful.
 
This is the melting pot America that Europeans love. Not the white supremacism currently being rammed down people’s throats.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Zalando nears first US client deal, sees AI traffic growing

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January 16, 2026

German online fashion platform Zalando SE is preparing to announce its first deal with an American client soon, marking a break into the US market with the company’s business-to-business offerings.   

Zalando is embracing AI – Archiv

“We now have the first teams on the ground to also develop the market for us- to talk to brands and retailers about their needs,” Zalando co-chief executive officer David Schröder said in an interview this week. “We are now finally approaching- and that makes us very happy- the closure of the first deals here in the US, which we hope to announce in the coming months.”

Zalando’s business-to-business operations have historically focused exclusively on Europe. But the company has hailed the US as “one of the biggest opportunities” for its Scayle software, which it gained through the acquisition of rival About You Holding SE in 2025. The software helps firms manage inventory and branding across sales channels. Schröder described Zalando’s business-to-business operations as a “multibillion-euro” opportunity. While much of that consists of logistics, he expects software to account for “a few hundred million” in revenue. 

Zalando shares jumped on Friday as much as 4% on the news before paring gains. 

The financial targets the company had issued last year failed to impress investors. The Berlin-based company has lost more than $20 billion in market value since peaking as a pandemic darling in 2021. Its shares slid after the pandemic as consumers returned to brick and mortar stores for their shopping needs. Despite some momentum in Zalando’s earnings, investors remain cautious about its ability to expand margins.

“There seems to be still some doubt on whether we’ll get there or not, especially on the margin side,” Schröder said of investors’ reaction to the company’s financial forecasts. “This year, we will prove again that the margin goes up and we continue to grow.” When Zalando reports full-year results in March, Schröder said executives will also “communicate a simpler story to make clear what our priorities are,” while reiterating financial targets.

Schröder said he sees traffic to Zalando’s shopping platform from artificial-intelligence chatbots and agents growing in the coming years. Today, more than 80% of Zalando’s traffic is organic and isn’t coming from paid advertising, Schröder said, with the rest largely coming through paid channels such as Google and Meta Platforms Inc. But “a low single-digit percentage” is now being directed through AI, he said.

While some have warned that AI tools threaten to undermine the business model of e-commerce companies, Schröder said he’s optimistic the technology will help Zalando reach new customers. The company recently started working with Google’s open standard for agentic commerce, designed to help retailers connect with consumers using AI to shop. 

“We obviously want to be where customers are,” Schröder said.

While agentic commerce may create some disruption for the industry, Bankhaus Metzler analyst Felix Dennl recently said in a note that he sees AI as an opportunity for Zalando to create content and optimise returns. 



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