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Italian menswear label Mulish mulls S Korea expansion, sister label Bharnaba growing fast

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Nicola Mira

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January 16, 2026

Italian menswear label Mulish is thriving. Owned by the eponymous company and based in Campania, Mulish staged an event during the Pitti Uomo 109 show in Piazza degli Strozzi in Florence, to assert its premier role in the contemporary menswear scene.

Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27

“We’re a company that has been in business for nearly 30 years, we’re well established in Italy, and we have a know-how deriving from years of experience in garment-making and men’s tailoring. We grew significantly in 2025, in Italy and especially abroad,” said Diego Di Flora, speaking to FashionNetwork.com at the Florentine event.

Di Flora is the creative director of Mulish and now also of the company’s other label, Bharnaba. “We’re very well-known on several foreign markets, thanks also to campaigns featuring VIP brand ambassadors like [football manager] Luciano Spalletti and [actor] Raul Bova. Retail-wise, we don’t operate monobrand stores, working instead with wholesale distributors. Mulish currently has over 100 wholesale clients, in Italy and abroad. We recorded double-digit revenue growth in 2025, and we’d managed to grow even during the Covid period. At that time, we launched a women’s line for a season, an experiment that was a great success,” said Di Flora.

Mulish now produces menswear only, and the hero product of its Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection is the Field Jacket. “We began with men’s outerwear, our main expertise is in that category. Womenswear requires a more varied, extensive range of garments, so we decided to refocus on our primary know-how,” said Di Flora.

Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27

Mulish still generates 70% of its revenue in Italy (“40% in Northern Italy, where, weirdly, we’re selling more than in the South,” said Di Flora). The company, whose labels are positioned in the ‘affordable quiet luxury’ segment, is now keen to export a larger volume of its Italy-produced, Neapolitan-style men’s tailoring collections overseas. “We’re already present throughout Europe, and we’re considering entering South Korea within a couple of years,” said Di Flora.
 
Mulish has expanded its occasionwear range, a segment “that is selling very well, especially [outfits] for bridegrooms,” according to Di Flora.

Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27

Mulish has 30 direct employees and a network of 400 collaborators. The company runs another label, Bharnaba, which exhibited at Pitti Uomo for the first time in the show’s January 2026 edition.
 
“It’s a Mulish-style label, but with a younger vibe,” said Di Flora. “Prominent in [Bharnaba’s] Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection are deconstructed jackets, tailored coats and double-breasted jackets. At the show, we launched the Bharnaba safari jacket, while the trousers, previously styled with a classic drainpipe cut, now feature darts and softer, more generous lines,” he added.

Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27

“[Bharnaba] was created in 2021, and is growing much faster than Mulish, thanks to a young audience that appreciates its style. The label’s signature garments are constantly reinterpreted with well-balanced volumes, new sartorial constructions and painstaking attention to detail. For example, we lightened up the structure of double-breasted jackets, giving them a more fluid fit, while Bharnaba coats are distinctive for their clean lines, refined materials and a perfect balance between meticulous design and a contemporary mood,” concluded Di Flora.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Milano Moda Uomo: Ralph Lauren, the coolest classicism

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January 16, 2026

The house of Ralph Lauren very rarely stages menswear runway shows in Milan, which is a pity as its catwalk display this Friday was the coolest and cleverest display of menswear classicism we’ve seen in many moons.

Ralph Lauren in Milan – FashionNetwork.com

 
The smoothest of shows too. Presented with polish inside Ralph Lauren’s European headquarters, a geometric Rationalist era jewel of a building. Guests- from Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo to Nick Jonas- imbibing biscuity champagne as they took their places on leather bench seats.
 
Opening with a score of looks from Polo, a rich selection of kicky, preppy ideas: red flannel shirts with turkey prints; Navajo graphic wool sweaters; snow crystal pattern cardigans; and even a brown three-piece Prince of Wales suit.  All anchored by Alpine hiking boots or hyped-up L.L. Bean style waders; or accessorised by Black Watch tartan carpet bags.

Plenty of Western looks, from urban cowboy brown suede fringed jackets, worn by a model with an acoustic guitar on his back, to lace ties, rancher hats, and riding boots. Very Yellowstone in Lombardy.

Black Watch tartan by Ralph Lauren
Black Watch tartan by Ralph Lauren – FashionNetwork.com

 
Backed up by a great soundtrack- where Nina Simone’s Sinnerman followed Texas Sun by Khruangbin and Leon Bridges. Ideal for some bold and colourful motor-bike jackets that read: Ralph Lauren Racing.
 
As day shifted to evening, Scottish baronial chic made an appearance: from Clan Stewart red plaid tuxedos worn under a Count Dracula cape to a great black Grenadier guards military tunic worn with a black silk stock– un petit merci to Dior. Albeit seen on models sporting New York Yankees baseball caps.
 
“We had so many looks and ideas in this collection that it just seemed right to stage a show this week in Milan,” explained Andrew Lauren, sitting among the movie stars in the villa’s covered courtyard.

Tailoring by Ralph Lauren
Tailoring by Ralph Lauren – FashionNetwork.com

 
All worn by a highly diverse cast, from all the world’s continents. And, one could not help noticing that when he came to the two chalk stripe impeccable bankers, these were worn by a South and an East Asian.
 
Though there was clearly no deliberate political message, the very heterogeneousness of the cast was a reminder of how Ralph has always celebrated the diversity of America. Which, at a moment when ICE are clearly racially profiling citizens in the United States, made this show feel very powerful.
 
This is the melting pot America that Europeans love. Not the white supremacism currently being rammed down people’s throats.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Zalando nears first US client deal, sees AI traffic growing

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Bloomberg

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January 16, 2026

German online fashion platform Zalando SE is preparing to announce its first deal with an American client soon, marking a break into the US market with the company’s business-to-business offerings.   

Zalando is embracing AI – Archiv

“We now have the first teams on the ground to also develop the market for us- to talk to brands and retailers about their needs,” Zalando co-chief executive officer David Schröder said in an interview this week. “We are now finally approaching- and that makes us very happy- the closure of the first deals here in the US, which we hope to announce in the coming months.”

Zalando’s business-to-business operations have historically focused exclusively on Europe. But the company has hailed the US as “one of the biggest opportunities” for its Scayle software, which it gained through the acquisition of rival About You Holding SE in 2025. The software helps firms manage inventory and branding across sales channels. Schröder described Zalando’s business-to-business operations as a “multibillion-euro” opportunity. While much of that consists of logistics, he expects software to account for “a few hundred million” in revenue. 

Zalando shares jumped on Friday as much as 4% on the news before paring gains. 

The financial targets the company had issued last year failed to impress investors. The Berlin-based company has lost more than $20 billion in market value since peaking as a pandemic darling in 2021. Its shares slid after the pandemic as consumers returned to brick and mortar stores for their shopping needs. Despite some momentum in Zalando’s earnings, investors remain cautious about its ability to expand margins.

“There seems to be still some doubt on whether we’ll get there or not, especially on the margin side,” Schröder said of investors’ reaction to the company’s financial forecasts. “This year, we will prove again that the margin goes up and we continue to grow.” When Zalando reports full-year results in March, Schröder said executives will also “communicate a simpler story to make clear what our priorities are,” while reiterating financial targets.

Schröder said he sees traffic to Zalando’s shopping platform from artificial-intelligence chatbots and agents growing in the coming years. Today, more than 80% of Zalando’s traffic is organic and isn’t coming from paid advertising, Schröder said, with the rest largely coming through paid channels such as Google and Meta Platforms Inc. But “a low single-digit percentage” is now being directed through AI, he said.

While some have warned that AI tools threaten to undermine the business model of e-commerce companies, Schröder said he’s optimistic the technology will help Zalando reach new customers. The company recently started working with Google’s open standard for agentic commerce, designed to help retailers connect with consumers using AI to shop. 

“We obviously want to be where customers are,” Schröder said.

While agentic commerce may create some disruption for the industry, Bankhaus Metzler analyst Felix Dennl recently said in a note that he sees AI as an opportunity for Zalando to create content and optimise returns. 



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French sales of textiles and clothing fell by 1.7% in 2025

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January 16, 2026

In France, following a December marked by a 4.7% drop in textile and clothing sales, excluding online sales, provisional figures from the Institut Français de la Mode indicate a 1.7% decline for the sector in 2025, after the stability achieved in 2024.

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December temperatures, 3.5 degrees Celsius above the 35-year norm recorded by Météo-France, are thought to have severely hit year-end sales of long-sleeved items. This unusual mildness spared no brick-and-mortar retail channel.

Independent retailers were the hardest hit, down 6.8% in December. Department stores and popular stores (Monoprix) fell by 4.7% over the period. Specialist chains were down 4.2%, while mass-market chains (Kiabi, Gémo, etc.) managed to limit their decline to 3.1%.

These figures, which will shortly be supplemented by online sales data, stand in contrast to the stability posted a year earlier, when the fashion sector was essentially flat in 2024 (+0.1%). This was a welcome sign at the time, following the 1.3% drop recorded between 2022 and 2023.

Sales trends by channel between December 2024 and 2025
Sales trends by channel between December 2024 and 2025 – IFM

A few days ago, data from the Fédération Nationale de l’Habillement indicated a 2.3% drop in sales for independent fashion retailers in 2025. The Procos federation for specialist retail, meanwhile, reported a contraction of 0.8%, with a marked drop of 4.5% for clothing, and 2.6% for beauty.
 

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