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Despite a 3.1% contraction in 2025, Italy’s footwear sector sees the light at the end of the tunnel

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December 23, 2025

Despite the persistent crisis affecting the fashion sector, the Italian footwear industry is beginning to show signs of recovery, even as it closes the year down 3.1%: the third quarter, in fact, ended with a 0.9% decline, “a markedly better result than the steep contractions experienced in the first half of the year,” notes a press release from Assocalzaturifici.

Giovanna Ceolini

“The current overall picture remains complex and spares not even the highest end of the market, but the third-quarter figures point to a slowing of the decline and a first glimmer of light at the end of the recessionary tunnel,” said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. “Despite the lack of significant improvements on the geopolitical front, our companies’ ability to maintain a strong foothold in European markets and to capture demand in the most dynamic areas, such as the Middle East, is key to navigating 2026. Although business performance is uneven, with several firms still under strain, the modest downturn expected in full-year revenue (estimated at 12.8 billion euros) confirms the resilience of Made in Italy.”

On the foreign trade front, exports reached 7.72 billion euros (-1.3%) in the first eight months of 2025. The most significant figure concerns volumes: 131.8 million pairs were sold abroad, up 4.3%. This recovery in volume was accompanied by a normalisation of average prices (58.58 euros per pair, -5.3%), signalling a correction after the double-digit increases of 2022/2023.

The EU (which takes seven out of every ten pairs exported) is growing in both value (+2.2%) and volume (+7.6%). Germany stands out with a solid 6% rise in value and 10% in pairs, while positive results were also recorded in Spain, Poland, Belgium, and Austria. Outside the EU, the Middle East remains the most dynamic region, with overall value up 13%, driven by a surge in the United Arab Emirates (+20%). Turkey and Mexico also performed well. The Far East, by contrast, remains under pressure, with a contraction of more than 20% in both volume and value, affected by the sharp slowdown recorded in China (-24.6% in value) as well as in all the other main Asian markets (Hong Kong, Japan,and South Korea), and by the CIS region (-9.2%, with -17.8% in Russia), still hampered by the conflict.

“The US market remains under close watch, with the eight-month period closing up 2.9% in value against a decline in volumes (-4.2%). The sector is cautiously assessing the impact of the tariffs set under the US-EU agreement: while August registered a discouraging -17.8% in value, preliminary September data show a responsiveness that was, in some respects, unexpected. To date, 55% of member companies exporting to the US judge the effects of the tariffs to be far from negligible, with one in five companies facing severe difficulties,” the note concludes.

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California-based group VSP Vision has completed its acquisition of Marcolin from PAI Partners

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December 23, 2025

On December 23, 2025, US eyewear giant VSP Vision announced that it had completed the acquisition of Italian eyewear group Marcolin- another of the world’s leading companies in the sector- from private equity firm PAI Partners and other minority shareholders.

Marcolin headquarters – Marcolin

“The acquisition of Marcolin marks another important milestone in our 70-year history, dedicated to providing our members, customers, doctors within the VSP network, company-owned stores, and key partners with ever greater value and a broader offering,” said Michael Guyette, president and CEO of VSP Vision. “Marcolin’s portfolio of global brands, manufacturing excellence, and geographical footprint complement Marchon Eyewear‘s brands and capabilities perfectly, further strengthening our ability to meet the evolving needs of customers around the world.”

VSP Vision’s portfolio already includes fellow US company Marchon, one of the world’s most renowned specialist eyewear players, which it acquired in 2008 for more than $700 million. Marchon is a licensee of US brands such as Calvin Klein, Nike, and DKNY, as well as designer labels including Ferragamo, Paul Smith, and Victoria Beckham.

Marcolin and Marchon will continue to operate as they do today, VSP Vision said in its statement. The amount paid by the Rancho Cordova, California-based company (formerly known as CVS-California Vision Services, and founded in Oakland, California, in 1955) was not disclosed, but according to informed sources cited in the eyewear trade press in recent months, PAI had sought a valuation of Marcolin in excess of 1 billion euros ($1.2 billion).

In 2012, PAI Partners acquired a 78.39% stake in the Veneto-based Marcolin group, buying it from shareholders party to a shareholders’ agreement (the Marcolin family and the Della Valle brothers) and from Antonio Abete, for about 207 million euros. The private equity fund had been seeking to sell Marcolin since 2022 and, after a succession of bids and more or less concrete options for potential buyers (from EssilorLuxottica to Kering Eyewear, Safilo, Hong Kong’s FountainVest fund, and HAL Investments), VSP’s offer ultimately prevailed.

Marcolin’s portfolio, which distributes its products in more than 125 countries, includes the proprietary brands Web Eyewear and Ic! Berlin, and the licensed brands Tom Ford (under a perpetual licence), Guess, Adidas Sport, Adidas Originals, Christian Louboutin, Max Mara, Zegna, GCDS, MAX&Co., MCM, Pucci, BMW, K-Way, Kenneth Cole, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Rag & Bone, Timberland, Gant, Harley-Davidson, Marciano, and Skechers.

Marcolin ended the first nine months of 2025 with revenues of 416.6 million euros, up 2.1% year on year. The main markets remained EMEA and the Americas, which posted revenues of 218.6 million (+7.6%) and 142.7 million (-5.5%), respectively. The Asian market, a high-potential region for the group, fully recovered in the third quarter of 2025 from the temporary slowdown. EBITDA was 68.5 million, accounting for 16.4% of net sales. In FY2024, total revenues amounted to 545.8 million euros, down 2.2% at current exchange rates.

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Italian fashion group Goodfellas merges by incorporation with Golden Season

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Nicola Mira

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December 23, 2025

Two Brescia-based Italian fashion companies have joined forces. Following the respective AGMs, the shareholders of Golden Season S.r.l., owner among others of menswear label AT.P.CO, and of Goodfellas S.r.l., which produces men’s and women’s outerwear and apparel label People of Shibuya, have announced that Goodfellas has merged by incorporation with Golden Season. The merger was made official on December 16, and will be effective from December 31, 2025. 

Looks by AT.P.CO, Fall/Winter 2025-26

From that date, Golden Season, a company based in Erbusco, near Brescia, will assume in full the rights and obligations relating to Goodfellas, which is based in Brescia, taking over all of the latter’s contracts and dealings, whether commercial, financial, and legal.
 
Golden Season develops, manufactures, and sells apparel collections for major Italian private labels and third-party brands, operating through a national and international distribution network. Goodfellas is a fashion and accessories wholesaler, and its business activities are complementary to those of Golden Season. In recent years, Goodfellas has consolidated its position in the fashion wholesale and retail distribution sectors, for both third-party and its own brands, recording positive results.

People of Shibuya, Fall/Winter 2025-26
People of Shibuya, Fall/Winter 2025-26

The operation is set to optimise and exploit the manufacturing and commercial synergies between the two companies, combining their production and distribution activities more efficiently. The objective, stated the two companies, is to strengthen Golden Season’s competitive position on the Italian and international apparel market.
 
Following the merger, Golden Season’s brand portfolio will include AT.P.CO, After Label, Skills Milano, and People of Shibuya. The merger will also enable the group to report its fiscal 2025 results as a single entity, marking a further step in the integration and streamlining of its business.

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Lacroix steps up expansion, bolsters premium positioning in the French mountains with two new boutiques

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December 23, 2025

The end of 2025 marks a phase of acceleration for Lacroix, which is strengthening its mountain presence with the opening of two owned boutiques in emblematic French resorts. On November 29, the brand opened its first store in Val d’Isère, followed on December 4 by a boutique in Courchevel 1850. These two strategic addresses, each spanning 140 square metres, underscore Lacroix’s determination to establish a lasting presence in the leading premium ski destinations.

DR

In Val d’Isère, the brand has set up a chalet-style boutique at Parc 1963, avenue Olympique, conceived as a warm, contemporary refuge. In Courchevel 1850, the Lacroix Igloo, located on rue des Verdons, offers a more minimalist, architectural aesthetic inspired by the purity of the high mountains. Coinciding with these openings is the launch of an exclusive Lacroix x Courchevel capsule, further reinforcing the brand’s visibility over the winter season.

Founded in 1966 by Léo Lacroix, an Olympic alpine skiing champion, the brand has established itself as a benchmark in high-end French skiing thanks to its exacting standards of technical expertise and performance. After a more challenging period marked by safeguard proceedings, Lacroix embarked on a new phase of development from 2022, following its takeover by Günther Doll and Damien Bodoy. This relaunch centres on a clear upmarket repositioning. Today, production is carried out mainly in Italy and Portugal, while the historic factory remains in Italy.

As part of this strategy, the brand is stepping up targeted collaborations to reach a younger clientele and refresh its image. The collaboration with Jacquemus follows a deliberately timed schedule: the capsule has been available since December 1, a few days before the opening of the Courchevel 1850 boutique and immediately after the opening in Val d’Isère.

With these two openings, Lacroix now operates two owned boutiques, alongside 45 wholesale points of sale in France and 20 internationally, notably in Korea, Canada, the US, and Austria. The brand anticipates 30% growth and plans to open around 10 new points of sale over the coming years. Revenue is estimated at 2.2 million euros in 2025, with a clear ambition to reach 10 million euros by 2028-2030. In this vein, Lacroix is already preparing its next collaboration with APM Monaco for the 2026/2027 season.

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