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Whistles maintains ‘steady performance’ despite challenges hitting financials

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December 23, 2025

TFG London and its brands Hobbs and Phase Eight reported their results a few days ago and now its Whistles chain has done likewise. And just like Phase Eight, it’s obviously faced some challenges in the year to late March 2025.

Whistles

The TFG-owned trio are moving in the right direction on many fronts but that doesn’t mean everything in the garden is rosy for contemporary womenswear label Whistles.

The company said that turnover during the year dropped to £57.7 million from £65.7 million and adjusted EBITDA dipped to £4.7 million from £5 million. Operating profit was down to £1.8 million from £2.5 million and profit after tax fell to £0.5 million from £0.9 million.

The company sells through its own stores, online and through department store concessions and operates both in the UK and internationally.

TFG noted a “steady performance for the year despite the ongoing challenging economic backdrop in the UK”. It added that Whistles grew its direct channel mix to 54.6% from 50% and while there was growth in its own channels, it underperformed in concessions where sales dropped 15% year on year. That reflects the performance at its stablemates Hobbs and Phase Eight with concessions also something of an issue for them during the year.

That was the main cause of Whistles’ 12% turnover drop, along with the fact that the company closed 19 stores while only opening five new ones. In fact, by the end of the financial year in the UK the company had 109 stores/concessions, down from 123 a year earlier.

But there was good news in that the gross margin was up at 69.9% from 67% due to that higher direct channel mix. The company’s distribution costs edged up but that was mainly due to a one-off warehouse move in March, the results filing said. Also good news is that administrative expenses were lower as a result of the drive to control costs.

We’ve reported other positive developments for Whistles towards the end of the year covered here, as well as post-year-end. 

In early March this year it joined the ‘Brands at M&S‘ platform. That’s a hugely important move that puts it in front of millions more consumers. OK, it probably wasn’t positive overall in the early months of the deal due to the well-publicised cyberattack that took M&S offline for quite a few months. But it should have an overall beneficial effect longer term.

In April, it also appointed its very first creative director as it aimed to elevate and redefine its design direction and its overall creative vision.

Jacqui Markham joined after a career in which she’d been design director at Topshop and Topman, ASOS and Urban Outfitters Europe. She’d also been a designer at Oasis and Karen Millen and more recently was a freelance design consultant.

Her immediate boss at Whistles, product director Camille Sullivan, said she would be “instrumental in driving both the brand and our product offering forward in our next stage of growth”.

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Around a hundred prime IKKS sites remain available for acquisition across France

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December 23, 2025

On December 12, the Paris Economic Affairs Court announced its ruling in the case concerning the IKKS Group, which has been in administration since late summer. The proposal from Financière Saint James, led by Michaël Benabou in association with Santiago Cucci, was selected, involving the takeover of 92 directly operated stores and 27 Galeries Lafayette shop-in-shops, safeguarding 546 jobs across the brand’s directly operated network.

The Boulevard des Capucines flagship in Paris – Shutterstock

This ruling, in effect, left the liquidators to find a solution for more than half of the company-operated network in France. A2MJ and Asteren are handling the case, which concerns 96 outlets. Two sessions, each with a different store list, have been announced for the disposal of these sites held by IKKS Retail and IKKS Group. Each features prime addresses in key cities across France.

Prospective buyers must submit their proposals in person to Maître Van Kemmel, Commissaire de justice at the Paris Economic Affairs Court, by January 22 for the first session. This includes locations such as 8–10 rue Barbette in the Marais district of Paris, 65 rue du Président‑Herriot on the Presqu’île in Lyon, a unit in the Parly 2 shopping centre, another in the Les Terrasses du Port shopping centre in Marseille, as well as the Cap 3000 shopping centre in Saint‑Laurent‑du‑Var, and 5 rue de Toulouse in central Rennes. The offering also includes several stores in outlet centres across France.

Bids for outlets in the second session must be submitted by February 5. These include stores on rue Saint‑Aubin in Angers, avenue du Général de Gaulle in La Baule, and rue Saint‑Jean in Le Touquet. However, candidates are likely to move quickly for spaces on the highly fashionable rue Paradis in Marseille and for prime Paris addresses at 31 boulevard des Capucines, 5 rue de Sèvres, 13–15 rue Tronchet, and the three sites on the quintessentially Parisian rue des Ternes.

This presents a wealth of opportunities for retail players to secure prime pitches on flagship shopping streets in major cities.

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MBFWMadrid to extend its March 2026 edition to five days and feature 30 designers

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December 23, 2025

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWMadrid), the showcase organised by Ifema with the support of Madrid City Council, will extend its next edition to five days, running from March 18 to 22, 2026, to accommodate the large number of designers.

MBFWMadrid will extend its March 2026 edition to five days and will feature 30 designers. – MBFWMadrid

The event will add an extra day of catwalk shows after receiving a record number of applications, allowing more proposals to be included in the official schedule, according to Ifema in a statement, which also confirms that 30 designers will present their autumn-winter collections.

The expanded schedule “reinforces the growth momentum” that MBFWMadrid is experiencing and “consolidates its position as the benchmark platform for Spanish design,” the organisation noted.

The decision was agreed by the MBFWMadrid Fashion Committee, a key body in the platform’s “transformation and strategic repositioning” process. This committee is made up of professionals from fashion, luxury, communications and business, together with the event’s management.

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Despite a 3.1% contraction in 2025, Italy’s footwear sector sees the light at the end of the tunnel

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December 23, 2025

Despite the persistent crisis affecting the fashion sector, the Italian footwear industry is beginning to show signs of recovery, even as it closes the year down 3.1%: the third quarter, in fact, ended with a 0.9% decline, “a markedly better result than the steep contractions experienced in the first half of the year,” notes a press release from Assocalzaturifici.

Giovanna Ceolini

“The current overall picture remains complex and spares not even the highest end of the market, but the third-quarter figures point to a slowing of the decline and a first glimmer of light at the end of the recessionary tunnel,” said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. “Despite the lack of significant improvements on the geopolitical front, our companies’ ability to maintain a strong foothold in European markets and to capture demand in the most dynamic areas, such as the Middle East, is key to navigating 2026. Although business performance is uneven, with several firms still under strain, the modest downturn expected in full-year revenue (estimated at 12.8 billion euros) confirms the resilience of Made in Italy.”

On the foreign trade front, exports reached 7.72 billion euros (-1.3%) in the first eight months of 2025. The most significant figure concerns volumes: 131.8 million pairs were sold abroad, up 4.3%. This recovery in volume was accompanied by a normalisation of average prices (58.58 euros per pair, -5.3%), signalling a correction after the double-digit increases of 2022/2023.

The EU (which takes seven out of every ten pairs exported) is growing in both value (+2.2%) and volume (+7.6%). Germany stands out with a solid 6% rise in value and 10% in pairs, while positive results were also recorded in Spain, Poland, Belgium, and Austria. Outside the EU, the Middle East remains the most dynamic region, with overall value up 13%, driven by a surge in the United Arab Emirates (+20%). Turkey and Mexico also performed well. The Far East, by contrast, remains under pressure, with a contraction of more than 20% in both volume and value, affected by the sharp slowdown recorded in China (-24.6% in value) as well as in all the other main Asian markets (Hong Kong, Japan,and South Korea), and by the CIS region (-9.2%, with -17.8% in Russia), still hampered by the conflict.

“The US market remains under close watch, with the eight-month period closing up 2.9% in value against a decline in volumes (-4.2%). The sector is cautiously assessing the impact of the tariffs set under the US-EU agreement: while August registered a discouraging -17.8% in value, preliminary September data show a responsiveness that was, in some respects, unexpected. To date, 55% of member companies exporting to the US judge the effects of the tariffs to be far from negligible, with one in five companies facing severe difficulties,” the note concludes.

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