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Dune losses widen as results lag investment in growth

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December 22, 2025

Dune — or more specifically Dune Topco Ltd — has filed its results for the year to February 2025 with turnover in the latest 53-week period falling to £137.6 million from £141.9 million in the previous 52-week year.

Dune

Gross profit dipped to £66.1 million from £68.2 million and the operating loss widened to £5.88 million from £2.7 million. The loss before tax was £7.4 million, almost double that of the £3.8 million loss in the previous year and the net loss for the period was £6.2 million, much worse than the almost-£1.7 million loss the year before.

The company talked of a challenging trading environment but also said that AW25 sees it trading strongly as demand for boots and bags has helped to drive like-for-like sales up in double digits.

It also faced the fact that it’s investing heavily in expansion and the fruits of this investment will be seen in the future rather than in the year in question. The company highlighted how its latest financial results “lag behind the strategic changes under way in the business”.

The company said that the year saw it with a clear strategy focused on “transitioning the business from a UK high street footwear retailer to a global footwear and accessories brand significantly distributed through partners”.

It delivered retail sales growth in the year, both overall and on a like-for-like basis, reflecting good progress in omnichannel in the UK market and in category development, in particular in accessories.

Beyond the UK, Dune International delivered growth in earnings in the year of consolidation of low-margin accounts with a heightened focus on development of key strategic markets supported by a reduction in admin costs.

During the period it opened one new outlet store and launched on two new online marketplace with a UK and European customer base. New stores and concessions were also opened in conjunction with its franchise partners in the Middle East, Australia, Libya, Croatia and the Philippines. 

It has also grown existing and new wholesale accounts in the UK and overseas, including in both concessions and online in the North American market. At the same time it’s been exiting UK stores that “no longer have the prospect of being profitable”.

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Hobbs looks strong, Phase Eight a little less so as owner TFG files accounts

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December 22, 2025

TFG Brands (London) Limited is growing fast following its purchase of White Stuff last year. But while still loss-making, the company that already owned Hobbs, Whistles and Phase Eight, isn’t only relying on acquisitions to expand.

Hobbs

It has filed its accounts for the year to late March 2025 and said that turnover jumped to £377.5 million from £323.5 million. Adjusted EBITDA was up to £51 million from £33.8 million  (excluding White Stuff the latest figure was £41.3 million) and operating profit rose to £23.2 million from £20.1 million. 

But as mentioned, the company remained loss-making after tax with a loss this time of £5.9 million, slightly wider than the £5.7 million deficit of the previous year. That loss after tax was impacted by £18.9 million of interest charges on parent company loans. The same issue had caused the loss in the previous year.

The company talked of ongoing challenges economically on a global scale but also said that it achieved what it believes is a strong set of financial results for its FY25 period. Obviously, the White Stuff buy significantly boosted it following its purchase in October 2024, contributing £81 million of turnover and £4.5 million of profit for the year. Its impact for FY26 should be much greater as it will be a full year.

There were other plus points too as, in line with its strategic objectives, TFG’s direct channel mix grew to 69% from 56%. It also opened four new standalone stores in the US.

Hobbs

The gross margin for the year improved to 70.5% from 69.4% reflecting the impact of the higher direct channel mix despite the promotional environment.

That said, while there was growth in the own channels mix, the sales performance overall was impacted by underperformance in the concession channel where sales dropped 14.7% year on year. This reflected border macroeconomic challenges as consumer shopping habits remained muted

But physical stores have a significant role to play in its business and it’s continuing to invest in the estate. During the year (including its own stores and concessions) it acquired 169 new ones via the White Stuff business and opened a further 78. It also closed 103 as it right-sized the business and focused on profitability and as of the end of the period in question, the group had a store portfolio of 699, up from 555 a year earlier.

Brand focus

Overall, it’s clear that the company is heading in the right direction, although looking at the individual brands that it owned before the White Stuff acquisition, we can see some strong variations in performance.

At womenswear retailer Hobbs, turnover dropped to £117.5 million from £123.9 million but adjusted EB ITDA rose to £23.9 million from £18.6 million. Operating profit increased to £16.7 million from £13.9 million and profit after tax rose to £12.4 million from £9.8 million.

The gross margin for the year improved to 72.9% from 67.4% and this is what contributed to the higher EBITDA.

Those improvements also came despite the fact that the latest financial year was a 52-week period compared to 53 weeks for the previous year.

The direct channel mix grew to 73.9% from 62.4% at Hobbs but it saw weakness in concession channels, as mentioned for the company as a whole. Sales there were down 12.8%, which is why the overall turnover for the brand dropped. 

But the company has clearly been focusing on its strongest-performing locations and while it opens six new stores during the year it closed 18. This meant its total number of stores and concessions by the end of the period was 123 down from 135.

Phase Eight

Phase Eight looked less strong with turnover down to £82.5 million from £91.7 million and adjusted EBITDA rising a little to £2.6 million from £2.2 million. The company made an operating loss of £0.5 million, which admittedly was smaller than the loss of £1.3 million a year earlier and profit after tax more than doubled, but only to £0.9 million from £0.4 million.

The womenswear brand delivered what the company called a “steady” performance. Again, its direct channel mix grew, this time to 62.4% from 52.5%, and the international mix increased to 12% from 5%. There was growth in own channels, particularly online, but again concessions were the weak spot with a sales drop of 15%.

The brand also implemented a new merchandising system during the year to “unlock future operating efficiencies” but it had an impact on current year trading as the supply of products was affected during the transition period. That contributed to the 10% drop in turnover, as did the fact that the company opened nine new stores but closed 18 as it moved to what it said was a “higher-quality, more profitable” core business. Its total store numbers at the end of the year were 128, down from 137.

The gross margin improved to 66.5% from 63.5% and distribution costs fell. But that couldn’t counteract the impact of lower turnover when it came to profitability.

As for contemporary brand Whistles, we don’t yet know about its performance as the accounts have been filed but are not yet available on the Companies House website. We’ll keep you updated about those when they are available.

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Authentic Brands inks wetsuit deal for Quiksilver, RVCA and Billabong brands

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December 22, 2025

Authentic Brands Groups has announced a new multi-brand expansion of its current partnership with Blue Sage Accessories (BSA) to produce wetsuits for Roxy, Quiksilver and Volcom in the U.S.

Courtesy

As part of the expanded deal, BSA will also produce additional cold weather and fashion accessories for Quiksilver, RVCA and Billabong in the U.S.

The Roxy, Quiksilver and Volcom wetsuits for men, women and kids and the new accessory categories for Quiksilver, RVCA and Billabong will be available both direct-to-consumer and at specialty retailers, from December.

“Wetsuits sit at the heart of Roxy, Quiksilver and Volcom’s legacy—iconic brands shaped by cold dawn surf checks, breakthrough athlete moments and decades of pushing performance boundaries,” said David Brooks, EVP, action and outdoor sports, lifestyle at Authentic.

“As one of the most technically demanding categories in board sports, wetsuits frequently define how athletes experience the ocean and how these brands show up in the water. Expanding this category with BSA underscores our continued trust in their ability to deliver high-quality, innovative products that resonate with our consumers globally.”

Earlier this month, Authentic named Pattern Group as its global e-commerce marketplace accelerator and premier TikTok Shop partner.
 

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Pierre Cardin renews global eyewear licence with Safilo

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December 22, 2025

Italian eyewear group Safilo has renewed its global licence for the design, production, and distribution of the optical and sunglasses collections of the historic Parisian fashion house Pierre Cardin. The renewal runs until 2031 and confirms the strength of the collaboration between the two groups, whose partnership began in 1991 with the launch of the first Pierre Cardin-branded eyewear collection.

Pierre Cardin eyewear, 2025 collection.

Founded by Pierre Cardin in 1950, the fashion house, whose headquarters are at 59 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, is now led by Rodrigo Basilicati Cardin, the couturier’s great-nephew, who safeguards its DNA while renewing it with a contemporary vision.

“For decades, our relationship has been founded on mutual trust and respect, qualities that enable us to realise exclusive, high-quality creative projects with exceptionally fast turnaround times compared with the norm, thanks to Safilo’s savoir-faire and professionalism,” said Rodrigo Basilicati Cardin, CEO of Pierre Cardin. “Indeed, the creations we have developed together are highly appreciated all over the world, starting with those in the Evolution line.”

Angelo Trocchia, CEO of Safilo Group, spoke of strengthening “our shared commitment to elevating the Pierre Cardin brand in the eyewear world, with a particular focus on optical frames. For Safilo, Pierre Cardin remains an important partner, thanks to its distinctive market position, innovative design and clearly defined target audience.”

Pierre Cardin, 'Evolution 11 Wave' eyewear
Pierre Cardin, “Evolution 11 Wave” eyewear

For more than 90 years, Safilo (whose net sales in 2024 totalled €993.2 million) has designed, manufactured, and distributed sunglasses, optical frames, helmets, goggles and outdoor eyewear. Safilo’s business model enables it to oversee the entire production and distribution chain: from research and development, with design studios in Padua, Milan, New York, Hong Kong, and Portland, and digital hubs in Padua and Portland, through to production at its own factories and with qualified manufacturing partners.

Distribution is carried out directly in 40 countries and through a network of more than 40 partners in a further 70 nations, reaching approximately 100,000 points of sale worldwide, including opticians, optometrists, ophthalmologists, retail chains, department stores, specialist retailers, boutiques, duty-free, and sports stores. The Padua-based eyewear group directly owns six brands (Carrera, Polaroid, Smith, Blenders, Privé Revaux, and Seventh Street), while it currently has 24 brands under licence.

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