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Carbios delays the opening of its French recycling plant for plastics and synthetic materials until 2028

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December 19, 2025

Originally slated for 2025, the commissioning of Carbios’ first biorecycling plant in France’s Longlaville (Meurthe-et-Moselle) has been pushed back again. Amid a challenging economic climate that is complicating financing, the French biotech announced on December 18 a further delay to its timetable.

Carbios

While the company has reaffirmed its determination to see the project through, it has now given itself until the end of the first quarter of 2026 to secure the final tranche of private funding needed to start construction. As a result, the plant is not expected to be operational until the first half of 2028, three years later than initially planned.

The stakes are high for the French company: the future Longlaville plant is intended to scale up Carbios’s technology for the enzymatic depolymerisation of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) plastics to industrial level. Once operational, the site is designed to process the equivalent of 300 million T-shirts (at least 90% made from synthetic materials) or two billion coloured bottles into virgin-quality PET.

The project enjoys strong backing, with €42.5 million in public funding secured and pre-commercialisation contracts already covering nearly 50% of future production capacity. However, a ‘small portion’ of private funding is still needed to get the project off the ground, a step hampered by the current market’s caution towards ‘First-of-a-Kind’ industrial infrastructure.

L’Oréal, On, Patagonia, Puma, PVH Corp, and Salomon are among the companies in the consortium supporting the Carbios project, whether to use its recycled materials for bottles or for fibres. Following an initial postponement announced at the end of 2024, the company nevertheless announced spending reductions in spring 2025.

Three additional plants planned internationally

While its in-house project in France is stalling, Carbios is accelerating its ‘asset-light’ deployment model: selling licences abroad. The company is no longer relying solely on its Lorraine site to demonstrate its technology, but is counting on industrial partners capable of financing their own plants.

After signing a major agreement with Wankai Group in early December for a plant in China, Carbios is now aiming to establish its technology in three other strategic regions: Europe, North America, and South America.

In 2024, Carbios announced, in succession, an initial project replicating its industrial site model in China with the Chinese group Zhink, then in Turkey with partner Sasa, and finally in the UK with the British company FCC Environment UK.

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Swinger International acquires Philippe Model Paris from 21 Invest

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December 19, 2025

Italy’s Swinger International group continues to make bold moves and, having just invested in the Etro brand alongside Rams Global and SRI Group, has also announced that it has acquired control of the sneaker and apparel brand Philippe Model Paris for an undisclosed sum.

Philippe Model Paris

The deal was signed by Swinger International, led by Mathias Facchini, and 21 Invest, the private equity fund founded in 1992 by Alessandro Benetton, which acquired a majority stake in the French brand in July 2016, when it was known as 21 Investimenti. Swinger International also owns Genny, produces the Just Cavalli collections and, as of this morning, holds a minority stake in Etro.

Philippe Model, an artist and painter, founded his eponymous label in Paris in 1978. In the 1980s, he created the innovative and highly successful ‘Elastique,’ a comfortable heeled shoe constructed with elastic straps. Throughout his career, he collaborated with leading Parisian designers and houses, including Christian Dior, Claude Montana, Lanvin, and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The company expanded from haute couture accessories to interior design projects, and in 2008 it was relaunched as a maker of premium sneakers for men and women, with all footwear produced in Italy’s Riviera del Brenta footwear district. Its 2024 turnover is estimated by the business press at around €30 million.

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Iconix grants Umbro’s France licence for footwear and clothing to Textiss

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December 19, 2025

From 2026, Umbro’s France business will be managed by the Drôme-based group Textiss. The company, led by Sylvain Caire and specialising in men’s underwear, notably develops its Freegun brand, as well as licensed products for Pierre Cardin and Von Dutch. Textiss is taking over Umbro’s footwear and textile licence in France, which had been held by the Royer Group for 10 years.

Textiss takes over Umbro’s footwear and textile licence for the French market – Umbro

“As owner of the Umbro brand, the Iconix Group has decided to entrust the Textiss Group with the textile and footwear licence in France from 2026, a natural evolution that continues the historic relationship between Iconix, Royer, and Textiss,” the group explained in a press release on December 19, adding that Textiss has been Umbro’s underwear and socks licensee in France for a decade.

“In agreement with the Royer Group, the licence will be subject to an organised and carefully managed transition,” said the group. “From January 2026, Textiss will manage orders for the second half of 2026, ensuring a smooth operational handover for all customers and partners.”

The American Iconix Group, a specialist in the licensed brand development model, was seeking a solution for the licence covering the key products of the British sporting goods brand it acquired from Nike in 2012. The Royer Group held the licence after taking it over in 2016.

With the French specialist in the development of footwear and sportswear brands facing difficulties, Iconix ultimately opted for the Châteauneuf-du-Rhône-based group to take on the brand’s key categories. Umbro currently outfits the Le Havre football club, HAC.

Neither the value of the deal nor details of the organisation concerning the teams that have worked or will work on the licence have been disclosed.

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Under Armour reshuffles employees who had worked on Curry brand

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December 19, 2025

Under Armour Inc. has laid off two employees who worked on Stephen Curry’s shoe and apparel brand and moved others to new jobs as the athletic company winds down its partnership with the basketball star.

Stephen Curry collaborated with Under Armour on branded goods – Curry

The company is disbanding the team that worked on the brand despite plans to sell new Curry merchandise through October, according to a person familiar with the matter who wasn’t authorised to speak publicly.

A spokeswoman for Under Armour said the company doesn’t comment on personnel-related decisions. Representatives for Curry didn’t immediately respond to messages seeking comment.

Last month Under Armour and Curry announced their surprise separation, ending a yearslong relationship that had helped boost sales and draw attention to the brand. Under Armour still plans to release the Curry 13 sneaker in February and says additional colorways and apparel collections will be available through October.

The end of the tie-up adds to growing pressure at Under Armour, whose shares have fallen 45% this year. The company has been trying to stem two years of sales declines by increasing marketing and prioritising core products.

The split came after Curry and his advisers became frustrated with what they considered to be a lack of investment in the brand and sales of the division hadn’t met their expectations or the company’s, Bloomberg News has previously reported.

Under Armour has said it will incur an additional $95 million in restructuring costs in part tied to the separation.



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