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LFW unveils busy season with Joseph return, final Paul Costelloe colleciton

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December 19, 2025

London Fashion Week has unveiled a busy calendar for its next runway season in February that includes the return of UK fashion label Joseph and the final collection from the late Paul Costelloe.

A Simone Rocha look on the runway at a previous London Fashion Week – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
Scheduled to run from Thursday, February 19 to Monday, February 23, the five-day event will feature some 46 runway shows, and a further 15 presentations, according to the official calendar release on Friday by the British Fashion Council. Along with 19 purely digital displays on the final day by fledgling designers. The season will present the fall/winter 2025/26 collections.
 
The house of Paul Costelloe will open the season at noon on Thursday with a posthumous show by the late great Irish designer, known for being the personal designer of Princess Diana. Costelloe passed away aged 80 in November.

While Burberry, by far the UK’s leading luxury label, will climax the season on Monday with an evening show by its designer Daniel Lee.
 
As noted, Joseph will return to London after a seven-year hiatus. When recently appointed creative director Mario Arena will show his second collection for the label. In another comeback, Julien Macdonald will return to the runways after a half-decade absence.
 
The week will include many of London’s heavy hitter advanced designers including Erdem, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, and Harris Reed.
 
However, several highly respected female designers are missing from the calendar, such as Roksanda and Molly Goddard. While what was previously the hottest runway show in London, J.W. Anderson, will be absent, as the Northern Irish designer pivots the marque into a lifestyle brand while he focuses on his main job in Paris, creative director of Dior.
 
Though the greatest lure of LFW is often the discovery of fresh, fashion forward talent, graduates of great UK fashion colleges such as Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion, or Loughborough University. Hence, hundreds of buyers and editors will flock in their hundreds to joint graduate shows or multi-designer catwalks like Fashion East, still to most observers the greatest incubator in fashion anywhere.
 

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Coty sells residual stake in Wella to KKR

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Reuters

Translated by

Nicola Mira

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December 19, 2025

On Friday, beauty giant Coty stated it has sold its residual 25.8% stake in haircare brand Wella to US investment firm KKR for $750 million. Coty has retained the rights to a share of any future sale of the brand, or any revenue accruing from an IPO.

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Coty said it is entitled to a 45% share of any proceeds from a sale of or IPO for Wella, once KKR’s preferred return has been achieved, adding that it plans to use most of the initial liquidity to reduce its debt.

The Wella sale brings to fruition a plan Coty initiated in 2020, aimed at streamlining its portfolio and operations, and at maximising the value it can generate from the Wella business, Coty added.

Earlier this year, Coty embarked on a strategic review of its beauty business which could lead to the sale of brands such as Rimmel and CoverGirl. The group’s goal is to refocus on the fragrance segment in the face of persistently weak demand for colour cosmetics.

This year, Coty’s shares lost almost half of their value.

Coty was founded in 1904 in Paris, and is the fragrance licensee for labels like Gucci, Chloé and Burberry. According to LSEG data, the group’s market capitalisation is approximately $2.8 billion.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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UK retailers report fall in sales ahead of Christmas, CBI says

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December 19, 2025

The UK’s official statistics agency released its November sales report on Friday and it wasn’t great. But perhaps more useful was the CBI’s holiday trading retail report as its showed how retailers are faring just about now.

Photo: Pexels/Public domain

And the news? Its distributive trades survey showed retailers are facing “bleak holiday trading as [the] sales outlook darkens”.

The survey is based on the weighted number of retailers who said sales fell, stayed static or rose, regardless of whether those rises or falls were big or small.

It showed that retail sales volumes fell “at an accelerated rate in the year to December, extending a period of weakness that began in mid-2023”.

And the New Year is “expected to start on a gloomy note for the retail sector. Retailers anticipate that annual sales will fall sharply next month, with expectations at their weakest since March 2021”.

Overall, a balance of 44% sales sales fall, worse than the 32% in November, with 57% expecting the downturn expected to deepen in January.

Sales for the time of year were judged to be “poor” in December, to a greater extent than last month (-31% from -20% in November). Next month’s sales are set to similarly disappoint against seasonal norms (-34%). 

Online retail sales volumes also declined at a moderate rate in the year to December, following two consecutive months of growth (-12% from +13% in November). Sales are expected to contract at a steep pace next month (-42%). 

Martin Sartorius, Principal Economist, CBI, said:  “Retailers reported that annual sales volumes fell rapidly in December, as weak consumer confidence contributed to softer trading conditions in the lead-up to Christmas. Firms do not anticipate any relief in the New Year, with sales expectations deteriorating to their weakest in over four years.”

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Victoria’s Secret first Nottingham standalone to open next year at Victoria Centre

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December 19, 2025

Victoria’s Secret will be opening its first standalone store in Nottingham in the spring with the brand (which is operated in the UK by Next in a JV with its parent company) opening in Victoria Centre, the key East Midlands retail destination.

Victoria’s Secret

The new 6,000 sq ft store will be located on the Lower Level, joining an already-strong mix of international brands including Levi’s, Urban Outfitters and Rituals. The mall operator said the news “is a direct response to rising customer demand for a Victoria’s Secret store within the centre”.

The opening certainly makes sense with 63% of the mall’s visitor base being female and the very large student population in the city (there are 65,000 students there). 

The operator also said the mall is seeing a “growing number of affluent guests” and it’s focused on adding “high-performing brands that resonate with its core demographic and reinforce its position as the city’s number one retail destination”.

Victoria Centre, which also has a flagship John Lewis and Boots, has seen a brand refresh this year as part of SGS UK Retail’s strategy to upgrade its whole portfolio.

Rebecca Milnes-James of the mall’s asset manager Pradera Lateral said of the latest store opening news: “Victoria’s Secret choosing Victoria Centre for its first standalone Nottingham store is a powerful endorsement of the momentum we’re building. Our strategy is focused on elevating the centre’s premium mix and ensuring we put high-performing, in-demand brands in front of our loyal and diverse guests.”

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