In the textile recycling market, announcements continue to come thick and fast. RadiciGroup and Lycra have unveiled their process for polyamides, Kipas its integrated system for polyester, and Circulose is accelerating its solution for converting cotton into cellulosic fibres.
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Radici and Lycra
Italian chemicals group RadiciGroup, via its R&D division Radici InNova, unveiled on December 16 a new “selective dissolution” process capable of treating garments made from fibre blends, long regarded as end-of-life, non-recyclable waste. Developed in a consortium with The Lycra Company and the Triumph brand, this patented technology uses non-toxic solvents to separate and recover polyamide and elastane as distinct streams. Unlike existing methods, the process preserves the elastic properties of the Lycra fibre, enabling its direct reintegration into high-end spinning cycles.
To demonstrate the industrial viability of this closed loop, the partners carried out a complete proof-of-concept using dormant stocks supplied by Triumph. The extracted materials were transformed into “Renycle” recycled polyamide yarn by Radici, then into new Lycra fibre, culminating in the manufacture of a fully recycled prototype lingerie set. While this pilot project validates the technical feasibility of processing hosiery and swimwear, the focus now shifts to scaling up: Triumph has announced that it is working on its first commercial capsule collection, while the consortium works to establish the traceability systems required for future industrialisation.
Kipas launches Fibr-e
Turkish yarn and fabric producer Kipas has announced the launch of Fibr-e, a molecular recycling solution targeting garments composed of 70% polyester. Developed with chemicals specialist Meltem Kimya, the process breaks down the material to produce GRS-certified “rTEX” granules that are decolourised and reusable without any loss of quality, while delivering an emissions reduction of almost 74% compared with virgin polyester production.
For Halit Gümüser, CEO of Kipas Textiles, this initiative marks the end of mere “pilot projects” and the start of an era of circularity at scale. By directly integrating these regenerated streams into its own spinning and weaving operations, the group intends to guarantee industrial volumes at competitive prices, enabling brands to anticipate tightening regulations. This vertically integrated model is therefore designed to scale up the recycling of heterogeneous textile waste into staple fibres and high-performance yarns.
Circulose confirms its relaunch
Relaunched in 2024 after a challenging period, Swedish manufacturer Circulose is now celebrating the success of its new strategy with the announcement of landmark partnerships with key players in international retail. After H&M, Mango and Marks & Spencer, the company has now brought on board Bestseller, C&A and John Lewis, as well as brands such as Filippa K, Reformation, Faherty, and Bobo Choses.
These long-term commitments aim to reintroduce its patented fibre derived from recycled cotton to the market at scale, positioning it as a direct, industrially scalable alternative to virgin viscose and lyocell (cellulosic materials derived from wood).
For Jonatan Janmark, the company’s CEO, this commercial momentum crowns a year of “strategic reset” and intensive exchanges with buyers. These secured volumes are described as the essential lever for unlocking the next industrial production phase.
French companies Carbios and Rec
In France, recycling projects are also continuing. Carbios, a specialist in the bio-recycling of plastics by depolymerisation, is due to launch work in the first quarter of 2026 on a bio-recycling facility for plastics and synthetic fibres at the Chinese company Wankai’s site (Zhink Group).
Focused on polyamide recycling, Ecollant has rebranded as Rec, and is launching construction of its industrial demonstrator in Burgundy for delivery in the spring.
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Under Armour Inc. has laid off two employees who worked on Stephen Curry’s shoe and apparel brand and moved others to new jobs as the athletic company winds down its partnership with the basketball star.
Stephen Curry collaborated with Under Armour on branded goods – Curry
The company is disbanding the team that worked on the brand despite plans to sell new Curry merchandise through October, according to a person familiar with the matter who wasn’t authorised to speak publicly.
A spokeswoman for Under Armour said the company doesn’t comment on personnel-related decisions. Representatives for Curry didn’t immediately respond to messages seeking comment.
Last month Under Armour and Curry announced their surprise separation, ending a yearslong relationship that had helped boost sales and draw attention to the brand. Under Armour still plans to release the Curry 13 sneaker in February and says additional colorways and apparel collections will be available through October.
The end of the tie-up adds to growing pressure at Under Armour, whose shares have fallen 45% this year. The company has been trying to stem two years of sales declines by increasing marketing and prioritising core products.
The split came after Curry and his advisers became frustrated with what they considered to be a lack of investment in the brand and sales of the division hadn’t met their expectations or the company’s, Bloomberg News has previously reported.
Under Armour has said it will incur an additional $95 million in restructuring costs in part tied to the separation.
Sandro announces two new openings in Latin America, with the launch of a boutique in Los Cabos, Mexico, and its first store in Santiago, Chile. These openings form part of the Paris-based brand’s international growth strategy, strengthening its presence in high-potential markets through partnerships with local players.
Sandro boutique in Santiago, Chile – DR
Founded in 1984 in Paris by Evelyne Chetrite, Sandro has established itself as a premium ready-to-wear brand with a contemporary positioning. The brand is now owned by the SMCP Group, alongside Maje, Claudie Pierlot, and Fursac. SMCP is majority controlled by the Chinese group Shandong Ruyi and has an international presence structured around a network of directly operated stores and franchise partners.
The first opening is in Mexico, with a new boutique at Ánima Village in Los Cabos. This new commercial and cultural district is developing into one of the country’s leading luxury hubs, bringing together more than 80 international brands, dining destinations and galleries, with architecture that blends into the natural landscape. Opened in early December, the Sandro boutique spans 159 square metres and offers the full womenswear and menswear collections. The interior follows the brand concept, defined by contemporary lines, high-quality materials, and a pared-back ambience. Developed in partnership with Retail Fashion Group, this opening brings the number of Sandro points of sale in Mexico to 21.
The second opening marks Sandro’s entry into the Chilean market. The brand is unveiling its first boutique in Santiago, within the Parque Arauco shopping centre, in its dedicated luxury district, considered one of the most prestigious in the Chilean capital. Covering 142 square metres, the boutique also offers the womenswear and menswear collections and reflects the house’s elegant, modern world. This opening, delivered in partnership with Leuru Group, represents a key milestone in Sandro’s regional development.
With these two new locations, Sandro continues its expansion in Latin America, strengthening its proximity to local and international clientele. This momentum follows the opening, in October 2025, of the brand’s first boutique in Argentina, in Buenos Aires. Globally, Sandro relies on a network of more than 750 points of sale across the key markets of Europe, North America, Asia, and the Middle East, and plans further openings in Latin America, notably in Paraguay and Uruguay. In France, the brand has 143 points of sale, including 64 corners.
This development strategy aligns with the SMCP Group’s overall performance, which in 2024 recorded revenue of €1.21 billion, around half of which was generated by Sandro.
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Originally slated for 2025, the commissioning of Carbios’ first biorecycling plant in France’s Longlaville (Meurthe-et-Moselle) has been pushed back again. Amid a challenging economic climate that is complicating financing, the French biotech announced on December 18 a further delay to its timetable.
Carbios
While the company has reaffirmed its determination to see the project through, it has now given itself until the end of the first quarter of 2026 to secure the final tranche of private funding needed to start construction. As a result, the plant is not expected to be operational until the first half of 2028, three years later than initially planned.
The stakes are high for the French company: the future Longlaville plant is intended to scale up Carbios’s technology for the enzymatic depolymerisation of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) plastics to industrial level. Once operational, the site is designed to process the equivalent of 300 million T-shirts (at least 90% made from synthetic materials) or two billion coloured bottles into virgin-quality PET.
The project enjoys strong backing, with €42.5 million in public funding secured and pre-commercialisation contracts already covering nearly 50% of future production capacity. However, a ‘small portion’ of private funding is still needed to get the project off the ground, a step hampered by the current market’s caution towards ‘First-of-a-Kind’ industrial infrastructure.
L’Oréal, On, Patagonia, Puma, PVH Corp, and Salomon are among the companies in the consortium supporting the Carbios project, whether to use its recycled materials for bottles or for fibres. Following an initial postponement announced at the end of 2024, the company nevertheless announced spending reductions in spring 2025.
Three additional plants planned internationally
While its in-house project in France is stalling, Carbios is accelerating its ‘asset-light’ deployment model: selling licences abroad. The company is no longer relying solely on its Lorraine site to demonstrate its technology, but is counting on industrial partners capable of financing their own plants.
After signing a major agreement with Wankai Group in early December for a plant in China, Carbios is now aiming to establish its technology in three other strategic regions: Europe, North America, and South America.
In 2024, Carbios announced, in succession, an initial project replicating its industrial site model in China with the Chinese group Zhink, then in Turkey with partner Sasa, and finally in the UK with the British company FCC Environment UK.
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