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ModaPortugal Links will showcase 18 European design talents in Porto on December 11

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December 9, 2025

ModaLisboa has announced a new edition of ModaPortugal Links, an initiative led by CENIT (Centro de Inteligência Têxtil), in partnership with ANIVEC (Associação Nacional das Indústrias de Vestuário e Confeção), to be held on Thursday, December 11, at the Palácio da Bolsa in Porto. The event will bring together young European fashion designers, ITV (Indústria Têxtil e do Vestuário), and international experts for “a meeting dedicated to creativity, innovation, and sustainability,” according to a statement published on its website.

ModaLisboa

Associação ModaLisboa will lead the event’s artistic curation and production. The organisation positions itself “as a strategic platform linking education, design, and production, highlighting the relevance of the national ITV and its role in building a more responsible and technologically advanced fashion industry,” adds the statement sent to FashionNetwork.com.

ModaPortugal Links includes the European Young Fashion Designers Competition, featuring 18 promising talents from eight leading European schools: Aalto University (Finland), Institut Français de la Mode (France), Polimoda (Italy), ESAD, the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, and Modatex Porto (Portugal), London College of Fashion (UK), and HEAD Genève (Switzerland).

The 18 young designers will visit five leading ITV companies and technology centres (Citeve, Inovafil, Irmãos Rodrigues, Pedrosa Rodrigues, and Valérius 360) on December 9 and 10 to learn about “cutting-edge production processes, sustainable models, and practices that reinforce Portugal’s position as an international benchmark in textile innovation.” The group will then present their collections to an international jury on December 11 at the Palácio da Bolsa in Porto.

“The competition final will take the form of a runway show and will culminate in the awarding of prizes to the winners from each country, along with the distinction of Best Collection in the ModaPortugal Links Fashion Design Competition,” reads the ModaLisboa website.

“The ModaPortugal Business Excellence Awards will also be presented at the ceremony, honouring Portuguese companies that have stood out over the last year in categories essential to the industry’s future: Brand, Exports, Industry 4.0, Investment, Sustainability, and Turnover.”

The statement also notes that the event “forms part of the Lusitano Project, funded by the PRR- Recovery and Resilience Plan and the Next Generation EU European funds, reinforcing the ongoing commitment to a more sustainable, competitive, and innovative fashion industry,” it concludes.

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Italian producer Swinger International lays off 70 workers following loss of Versace business

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Nicola Mira

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December 9, 2025

Italian ready-to-wear producer Swinger International (Swinger) is in trouble. The company, based in Bussolengo, near Verona, has been producing jeans and ready-to-wear for major fashion labels since the early 1970s, and is now about to lay off almost half of its workforce.

Spring/Summer 2025 Versace Jeans Couture looks, produced by Swinger International

It will be a very bitter Christmas for Swinger’s employees. Only two weeks after entering an eight-month temporary redundancy procedure relating to its entire workforce, on November 25 the company applied for collective redundancy for 70 of its 148 employees, as reported by local newspaper L’Arena.

The business outlook for Swinger worsened dramatically in the last few months, after the company lost Versace as a client. The Italian luxury label, whose acquisition Prada formally completed last week, single-handedly generated about 80% of Swinger’s revenue, according to union sources. The same sources said that Prada is expected to relocate the manufacturing of Versace products outside Europe.

Contacted by FashionNetwork.com, Swinger declined to comment or make a statement. It said however that the company owners’ reactions to this serious state of affairs will be made known in the coming days.

It is a real shame that Swinger is in such dire straits. From its inception in the 1970s as a small artisanal producer of jeans and later ready-to-wear, Swinger scaled up its business over the decades, securing the licenses of global labels like Roberto Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood, Missoni and Fendi, notably producing ready-to-wear targeted to younger consumers. From the nearly €100 million revenue recorded in 2020, Swinger grew to over €175 million in 2023. In 2011, Swinger had acquired womenswear brand Genny, still part of its portfolio, naming Sara Cavazza Facchini as creative director.

The first union consultation to handle the collective redundancy procedure took place at the offices of Confindustria Verona on Tuesday. Italian labour regulations state that the company owners and employee representatives have 45 days to reach an agreement, plus an additional 30 days during which the Veneto regional authority can be involved in a mediator role. L’Arena newspaper has reported that negotiations have so far been unsuccessful.

On Tuesday December 9, the Filctem-CGIL union refused to sign off on a deal. According to L’Arena, the union’s representatives said that “their requests, including among other provisions a safeguarding clause relating to when the redundancies would start, have not been taken on board.” Moreover, the union said that “the conditions set by the company are absolutely unacceptable, starting with a wholly inadequate resignation bonus.” Filctem-CGIL also said that it will assist individual employees if mandated by them.

Swinger’s current difficulties are said to have started in May, when the company applied for a redundancy procedure for 171 employees, owing to a shortfall in production orders, but things came to a head in late summer, even after 23 workers resigned.

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Masaba Gupta brings vibrant desi glamour to Miami with curated showcase

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December 9, 2025

Eponymous designer Masaba Gupta showcased a vibrant 20-piece capsule collection in Florida, US to bring her global-facing take on desi heritage style to Miami Art Week and participate in its ‘Art from the eye of India’ event.

Masaba Gupta’s opulent, fusion take on Indian heritage style – Masaba Gupta

 
“India has been my biggest source of inspiration, and I carry India on my sleeve, now more than ever as we make our debut at Art Basel, Miami,” said founder and chief design officer Masaba Gupta in a press release. “I am not just representing India but unleashing it. What started as a dream to play with print and everything kitsch has grown into one of the most recognised Indian brands across fine jewellery, luxury bridal fashion, and more.”
 
At ‘Art from the eye of India,’ visitors explored Indian art, culture, and heritage as a curated selection of Gupta’s womenswear designs were complemented by the poetry of Rupi Kaur. The event brought together creatives including Rajiv Menon, who showcased his work at Art Basel, and Art Basel Asia representative Angelle Le Siyang, both offering their insights as guest speakers and adding to the cultural exchange between India and the global art community.

Gupta presented both clothing and fine jewellery in the showcase titled ‘Ghee-Shakkar,’ meaning clarified butter and sugar, a phrase symbolising auspicious beginnings and abundance. Intricate embroidery, iridescent textiles, and fusion style silhouettes presented a playful, joyous take on India’s rich aesthetic and craft traditions and offered wearable opulence to a global audience.

Masaba Gupta's signature cow motif features on a statement jacket
Masaba Gupta’s signature cow motif features on a statement jacket – Masaba Gupta

 
“The narrative unfolds in black and white as much as it does in bursts of colour, finally culminating into a magnificent hot pink gulal,” said Gupta. “Motifs on the garments are steeped in culture, drawing from cosmic patterns, ancient cityscapes, and the textures of an India that are both timeless and ever evolving.”
 
Miami Art Week ran from December 1 to 7 at numerous locations across the city, with the public fair taking place from December 5 to 7. Through her presence during Miami Design Week, Gupta sought to celebrate Indian culture and build meaningful international connections across the industries of art and fashion.

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Middle East IPO boom fades amid competition from global markets

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December 9, 2025

After four blockbuster years, the Middle East’s initial public offering boom is losing steam as valuations come under scrutiny and listings roar back in the US and Asia. In recent months, the Gulf’s listing volumes have fallen to their lowest since the pandemic, investors have become markedly more selective, and the region’s once-reliable first-day pop has faded. 

Lulu Group is based in the UAE and counts numerous malls in India – Kozhikode District- Facebook

The change in sentiment was on show this week as Saudi Arabia’s EFSIM Facilities Management canceled plans for an up to $89 million listing on the kingdom’s main exchange. Saudi Arabia’s sovereign wealth fund has also slowed work on several planned first-time share sales, Bloomberg News has reported. Those moves come as the benchmark Tadawul index has dropped nearly 12% this year. 

The Gulf had been a rare bright spot in recent years, buoyed by government privatisations and a push to deepen local capital markets. But lower oil prices have started to cloud the Middle East’s growth outlook, particularly in Saudi Arabia. Meanwhile, as IPO activity fired back up elsewhere, a region that thrived in a global listings drought suddenly faced competition. 

The most striking shift this year was the sharp drop in IPO volumes across the Gulf, with regional listing proceeds more than halving from $13 billion to under $6 billion in 2025. In the UAE, listings slowed dramatically after the soft debuts of Lulu Retail Holdings PLC and Talabat Holding PLC late last year left investors more cautious. Dubai-based online classifieds platform Dubizzle Ltd. postponed its first-time share sale, a rare example of a pulled deal in the country. Oman, which had briefly outpaced London in IPO volumes in 2024, also saw activity dry up. 

In Saudi Arabia, the EFSIM deal was pulled in part due to generally weaker market demand, people familiar with the matter said. Still, the kingdom’s IPO proceeds held steady compared to last year at roughly $4 billion, helping the kingdom reclaim its title as the Gulf’s busiest listing venue. But most deals came from the private sector as the government eased off on large privatisations.  

“Government IPOs are large tickets, this year the market was not for this,” said Mostafa Gad, head of investment banking at EFG Hermes, one of the leading arranger of share sales in the Gulf. “Postponing the big ones was a very wise idea.”

The shift in sentiment was evident in deal size as well. Last year produced three IPOs nearing $2 billion after strong orderbooks allowed Talabat and Lulu to upsize their offerings late in the process, even though that enthusiasm didn’t carry into trading. In 2025, there was just one billion-dollar deal from low-cost carrier Flynas, and only four transactions topped $500 million.

Investors pushed toward smaller, simpler stories with clearer financials, “Anything above $500 million starts to get difficult,” said Gad, “People are not willing to navigate through a lot of complexity.”

If UAE IPOs slowed, follow-ons filled the gap. Secondary share sales in the emirates climbed toward $5 billion, overtaking IPO proceeds for the first time. Much of that activity came from Abu Dhabi government-backed shareholders trimming stakes to boost free floats, liquidity and index weightings.

Even Qatar, which has largely missed the Gulf-wide share sale boom, saw rare activity: Ooredoo’s multi-million-dollar stake sale by Abu Dhabi Investment Authority became the country’s most significant ECM event in years. Saudi follow-on volumes were more muted than last year, which was dominated by the government’s $12 billion sell-down in oil major Aramco.

Another defining shift came in performance. The 30% plus first-day jumps that had become a feature of Gulf listings started to crack in late 2024 and evaporated in 2025. In Saudi Arabia, the average listing gain turned negative, and only two of the kingdom’s ten largest IPOs now trade above offer. Broader market weakness didn’t help – Saudi equities were among the worst performers in emerging markets this year, dragged down by softer oil prices and concerns that this could dampen government spending. 

Demand has also suffered in recent listings. Riyadh developer Al Ramz’s institutional investor books were only 11 times covered earlier this month, a far cry from the triple-digit oversubscription levels that were the norm months ago.

IPOs in the UAE fared better, but signs of fatigue appeared there too. Even contractor Alec Holdings PJSC – state-backed and the kind of deal that historically delivered a strong debut – traded tepidly on day one and is up a modest 3%. Dubai and Abu Dhabi’s main stock indices overall performed relatively well, but instant double-digit listing gains were no longer a given.

For some, that’s a welcome correction. “Everyone will adjust to the idea that not all IPOs will perform 30–40% on day one,” Gad said. “We’re becoming a mature market.”



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